What began as a visit to a little-known cultural centre in Istanbul turned into an unexpected journey through the Turkic world - and a reminder of how much there still is to discover.

You can experience Istanbul for free by visiting historic sites like the city walls and columns, stepping into mosques, exploring bazaars, visiting churches and art spaces, and moving around the city with an Istanbulkart. Many of the city’s most important experiences don’t require an entrance fee - just time and curiosity. I’ve put together a small guide to places and experiences where you can explore Istanbul’s history and culture without feeling like you’re constantly being